Should I Claim It?

How much does a new roof cost?

For most homes, a full asphalt-shingle replacement runs $8,000 to $25,000. Metal, tile, and slate go higher, sometimes much higher. The single biggest driver is how many "squares" of roof you have, not the price of a bundle of shingles.

Written by Kent Lansing, Founder & EditorLast reviewed

What a new roof costs by material Sample ranges

Roofers price by the "square", which is 100 square feet of roof surface. A typical single-family roof is 17 to 20 squares, which is not the same as the floor area of the house because pitch, overhangs, and dormers all add surface. The per-square price bundles the material, tearoff and disposal of the old roof, underlayment, flashing, and labor.

Sample 2026 roof replacement price ranges by material, per square and for a typical 20-square roof
MaterialPer square (100 sq ft)Typical 20-square roofLasts
Asphalt, 3-tab$350–$500$7,000–$10,00015–20 years
Asphalt, architectural$450–$700$9,000–$14,00025–30 years
Metal, standing seam$900–$1,600$18,000–$32,00040–70 years
Clay or concrete tile$1,000–$2,500$20,000–$50,00050+ years
Slate$1,500–$3,500$30,000–$70,00075–100+ years

These are illustrative ranges compiled from published 2026 industry benchmarks, not live quotes from local roofers in your ZIP. Actual bids in your market may fall outside these bands in either direction, especially after a regional storm when demand runs hot. When our live-quote roof dataset ships, this table becomes real prices in your ZIP instead of a range. Use these as a plausibility check for what a roofer tells you, not as the number.

What actually drives your bid

Two homes with the same square footage can quote thousands apart. The variables that matter most, in the order they usually move the number:

Repair versus replace

A localized repair is usually a few hundred to a couple of thousand dollars: a torn ridge cap, a bad flashing detail around a chimney, a handful of shingles blown off in a storm. A roofer worth calling will tell you which one you need before selling you the bigger job. If a roof is under about 10 years old and the damage is confined to one area, repair is often the right answer even when a storm-chaser at the door insists otherwise.

A full replacement is the right answer when there is systemic wear, when a majority of shingles are curling or losing granules, when there is widespread hail bruising, or when the deck itself is compromised. If two independent roofers say "replace," they are probably right; if one says repair and one says replace, get a third.

Asking is not filing

A worry we hear constantly: if I call a roofer, does that count as an insurance claim? It does not. Getting a licensed roofer up on your roof to write a repair or replacement estimate is free, it happens outside of any insurance process, and your insurer never hears about it. In several states insurers are barred by statute from raising your rate for calling to ask about a claim, or for weather-related claims at all. See state-by-state homeowners roof insurance rules once that hub is live.

Get the roofer's estimate first, in writing. Then you can compare a real number to your real deductible and decide whether an insurance claim would net you anything at all.

What your insurance pays, in one paragraph

Homeowners policies pay for sudden damage from a covered peril, which means storm, wind, hail, and falling objects. They do not pay for gradual wear, poor installation, or a roof at the end of its natural life. Two things carriers do that surprise people, and that make "how much does my insurance pay for a new roof" a smaller number than most homeowners expect:

  1. A percentage deductible on wind and hail. Your deductible is often a percent of your home's rebuild cost, not a flat dollar amount. A 2 percent deductible on a $400,000 home is $8,000 due before the claim pays a cent. Calculate your real deductible in one screen.
  2. A payment schedule by roof age. Many carriers pay full replacement cost only for roofs 0 to 10 years old, prorate at 10-plus, and pay only the depreciated value at 15-plus years. A 17-year-old asphalt roof can clear the deductible on paper and still write you a check for near nothing.

Both mechanics are explained in plain English at how to get insurance to pay for roof replacement, and the second one is exactly why the honest answer to that question is often "you can't, here is why."

Before you call anyone, do the arithmetic

Two things you can pull off the shelf in five minutes:

  1. Your real deductible. Two inputs from your declarations page: dwelling coverage limit and the wind/hail percent. It multiplies them out for you.
  2. An estimate from one local roofer. Just one, in writing. This costs nothing and is not a claim.

Compare the two. If the estimate is under your real deductible, insurance would pay nothing at all and filing would put a claim on your record for zero money back. If the estimate is well above your deductible, and the damage is sudden storm damage on a relatively young roof, filing is what coverage is for. The middle ground is what our full roof claim calculator is being built to handle.

Where these numbers come from

Material and per-square ranges are compiled from published 2026 industry benchmarks (roofing trade groups and national aggregators) and are labeled as sample ranges throughout, not shop quotes in your ZIP. Cost drivers, pitch premiums, deck replacement pricing, tearoff and dump-fee ranges are common industry norms and vary by region. The percentage-deductible and roof-payment-schedule points are documented in carrier policy forms and state insurance department consumer guides; each source will be cited on its dedicated explainer as the roof data files ship. This page will be replaced with live per-ZIP pricing when our roof-cost dataset publishes.